Jardin Japones

The Jardin Japones is part of the Palermo Woods park system in Buenos Aires. It opened in 1967 to mark the visit of Prince Akihito and Princess Michiko, now Emperor and Empress. They visited again in 1997.

The garden contains all the elements of a proper Japanese Garden: water, trees, rock, lanterns, bridges and a tea house. Balance and harmony are key and while these photos give the impression of tranquility, there is a significant human presence in the garden. Best to come during the week when crowds might be smaller.

The red bridge is called the Bridge of God. It is deliberately difficult to cross as it symbolizes the often rough path to paradise.

The writer at 47

Yesterday was a hot and humid day in BA. The temperature, with the humidity factored hit 47 degrees at 4 pm.

Which reminds us of days in the Yukon, not all that long ago, when on several occasions the temperature hit minus 48. In fact, on the day we left!



There is a comparison that can be made between the cold of Dawson City and the heat of Buenos Aires.

On the right is the Berton House Writer at 45.

Below is the writer at 47, coming out to the balcony ever so briefly from a nicely air conditioned apartment (Berton House South).

Now seriously, do you think she was smiling at 45?

Then again, it was a dry cold. Yeah, right.

You can view other photos of the dry cold by checking the Dawson City Journal 

link at the right, or by clicking on the following posts:

Dawson City Journal Minus 45

Dawson City Journal Catching Some Rays

Soplador de hojas

In Buenos Aires we have yet to see, or hear, un soplador de hojas. I'm sure they exist, they must exist here too, though through our travels in this city the noisy, smelly, disgusting evil of leaf blowers has yet to materialize. And apart from a week in Vancouver at the end of December when they seemed to be going every single day, we haven't heard a leaf blower since the end of September. Living three months in the subarctic of the Yukon tends to help. 

There is much noise in BA. The constant sound of construction envelopes us five days of the week, and traffic can be heard all day, everyday. But that annoying sound of leaf blowers has been pleasantly absent from our senses for all these months.

Until we visited the town of Calonia in Uruguay. Every morning the sopladors de hojas are out in force, creating noise, stink and dust.

Leaf blowers are clearly from the dark side. 

We need to work together to destroy this evil. Before it destroys us.

And while we are at it, let's get rid of those gas powered bikes that smell and sound like poorly tuned lawnmowers. Either peddle your bike or buy a proper motorcycle.

Uruguay sunset

                                                                                                            Colonia's heat finally abates around sunset after 8:30 pm. As it gets darker we can make out the lights of   Buenos Aires across the Rio Plata.

Calonia ~ crumbling quaintness and McCain Super Fries

Across the river from Buenos Aires is Uruguay and the town of Colonia del Sacramento. Long a favoured getaway for portenos, Colonia boasts a population of around 25,000 and a laid back atmosphere quite unlike anything in BA.

We travelled to Calonia by the BuqueBus rapid ferry. The 52 km journey takes about 55 minutes. At Uruguay Immigration there was a discussion, in Spanish of course so I'm not sure of all the details, nor to what I might have agreed, about the fact that my passport photo does not match the present reality of my appearance. The result of three months in the Yukon perhaps. In the end there was a smile by the officer and I was allowed entry.

Calonia is famous for its historic quarter, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our inn, Posado Plaza Mayor, a highlight of our stay, is located in the quarter and was built in 1860. Unassuming from the street, it boasts charming rooms and a beautiful courtyard, to which our room opens, complete with limes and grapes.

Founded by Portuguese in 1680, Calonia changed hands between Spain and Portugal a number of times. The cobblestone streets and buildings date, in many cases to the 1600s.












Calonia is beautiful. It is also a tourist town. There are many, many restaurants, all serving McCain french fries. In fact the dining situation in the barrio historico is terrible. While it is nice to sit outside and view the crumbling quaintness of the town, eating anything but the most rudimentary of food for the masses is almost impossible. This is a problem. In that sense I suppose it isn't unlike tourist towns the world over, but with the serious dining habits of Argentinos, the town's main tourist market, this doesn't make sense.

A popular restaurant across from the Basilica is El Drugstore. In the evening it boasts live entertainment. The singer presents all the Broadway hits from 1920 to 1950. She sings with great flourish,and wearing a headset, to canned music. In a brilliant grand finale, she stands on a chair, which wobbles a bit on the uneven tiles, and sings Don't Cry for Me Argentina.

Meanwhile, inside the Basilica, and down some dark and uneven stairs, is a strange nativity display with spot lights that flash so quickly your eyes hurt.















We did find one restaurant that potentially offers an actual dining experience beyond Super Fries. The Art Gallery Restaurant is small and inviting. We managed to get there for a late night cafe con crema and brandy, and to watch a stunning full moon. When we returned for a meal the next night, it was unexpectedly closed.

In the end, sometimes a person just has to give in. Here Sherry enjoys a cool drink at a cafe, and watches as a busker auditions for the cafe's owners. He was actually quite good, no classic hits, just a simple guitar. And no, we didn't have any fries.